Adventure Treks Nepal (trekking company) had suggested we begin our trek in Phedi instead of Nayapul, the other common start point. So, that is the route we would take - begin in Phedi and end in Nayapul.
Our guide – Gyanendra
Our porter (also a guide) – Ramesh
At times, Ramesh carried more than just gear…
Many trekkers will use 10-11 days for the trek to Annapurna Base Camp (with a side trip to Poon Hill for sunrise). This would give them sufficient time to manage the long climbs and descents along the way. Our plan would be 8-1/2 days and in the end, we ended up doing it in 8 days and that still gave us opportunity for a couple of more leisurely hiking days (i.e. not in speed as much as more time to relax at the planned teahouse destination) along the way.
Teahouses:
Beginning in Phedi meant that our trek would start with a long steep hike up. One thing to note is that the trails are a mix of dirt, fields, rocks/boulders, tree roots, suspension bridges, log bridges…and steps - lots of steps, seemingly endless steps. Some are high steps (think burning quadricep muscles) and others are lower, but deeper steps. There were times where you looked forward to a plain ol’ dirt path to give the legs a break.
Apparently, there have been some individuals who have counted the number of steps between Ulieri and Tikhedhunga and we’ve heard everything from 3000 to 4600 stone steps, but it really doesn’t matter which one is correct, because that represents only a small portion that the trekker will face over the full route. It is only one very short and very steep section. In any case, there are a LOT of steps!
We travelled through farming areas, villages, jungle, rhododendron and bamboo forests. We crossed streams, walked over icy rocks, frost-tipped grasses, and through snow. We wandered past glaciers, waterfalls, scree slopes above the tree line…and we sat in amazingly warm hot springs to soothe the muscles and the soul.
We shared the paths with local residents, children going to/from school, trekkers, animals (buffalo, donkeys, sheep, goats, dogs, cows, monkeys, and birds), porters for trekkers, and porters for supplies being carried in and out from the various villages and teahouses along the way.
Since there were no roads, all supplies - incl building materials, food, etc – would be carried in. The porters’ faces barely reflected the strain from the heavy loads their bodies undoubtedly were carrying. It was a part of their life. It’s not surprising that we noticed several elderly locals with walking sticks, bent over from what may have been the result of years of carrying such loads.
The views were amazing – sunrise at Tadapani, Annapurna Base Camp, Poon Hill, and Ghorepani will not be quickly forgotten. Sunset in Tolka, Chhomrong, and Birenthati was beautiful. Winter solstice and the full moon made for bright skies in the evenings.
An impromptu volleyball game between the trekking porters in Ghorepani was a highlight – these guys were amazing…and some were playing in open-toed sandals. Ramesh, our porter is the one in the red and black down jacket and jeans.
We had a ton of fun along the way – Mark and Gyanendra had me laughing while they played mock-volleyball at a local school between Chhomrong and Chuli – with their packs on!
It is understandable why this is called the Annapurna Sanctuary trek – the mountains seem to envelop us as we reach base camp and everything is so peaceful.
We met other trekkers from around the world (photo below of a great group from Australia that were with us at base camp and then we were reunited with them again in Pokhara), others from Thailand, UK, Netherlands, USA, Canada, Nepal, China, Cambodia and many more.
Leaving footsteps and taking home a TON of memories – what a trip!
